Begin in one corner and install from left to right with the bottom lip
out towards the room. The long side distance to the wall can be adjusted later when three rows have been installed.

Remember that it's often simpler to start the row of boards at the door.

Press the next floor board at an angle to the first and lay it down.
Continue in the same way with the rest of the first row.

Cut the final board in the first row to the correct length and begin the next row with the piece that was left over. The boards' end joints are staggered by at least 500 mm (at least 300 mm when installing 1.2 metre boards and 7 mm Linnea).

Press the floor board at an angle to the board in front. Knock lightly with the hand block while carefully pressing the board down.

Push in a Kährs installation key under the board you have already installed at the short end.

Press in the next board's short end at an angle and lay down the long side.

Remove the installation key and knock lightly with the hand block on the long side while at the same time carefully pressing the board down and it will move into place more easily.

The floor's distance to the walls can be adjusted when three rows have been laid. Place keys between the floor and wall. The keys must be removed once the installation of the floor is complete.

The first floor row must sometimes be adjusted to a crooked wall.
Draw the wall's contour on the floorboards. Then loosen the boards
in the first row by gripping the long side, pulling upwards while, at the
same time, knocking lightly against the joint. Saw.

Replace the sawn floorboards from left to right. First angle in the short side and then the long side as previously described under items 5–7. Place keys between wall and floor.

Drill holes in the board for heater pipes. The holes should be at least 20 mm wider than the pipe's diameter. Saw as shown in the picture. When the floor has been installed, glue the sawn-out piece and cover the holes with pipe collars or twin roses.

If you need to cut a door liner use a floorboard as an underlay to get the exact height. If you need to saw lengthwise protect the board's joint with a sawn-off piece from a short end that can be inserted in the joint.

This is how to saw the last board row to the correct width. Lay the last board on top of the next-to-last board with an approximately 5 mm allowance from the wall. Mark the saw cut with the help of a piece of board without locking moulding. Install the sawn board.

Do the same with the next one. Fit the skirting boards. These must not be pressed down so that the floor is locked. When making the transition to another room use level mouldings or connection mouldings.

The boards can be installed from all directions if required. This facilitates installation around doors, for example.

Proceed as follows if you cannot gain access to angle the board under a door liner or lowfitting radiator, for example.

a) Cut away about 2/3 of the locking moulding.